Evening views at Pont d'Ouche

The Bistrot from our boat.

View towards hills and lock.

A man on a pony and trap can be seen through the window.

Gorge-ous

Roches du Chatelet

Today, our last day here until May, we headed south on our bikes towards the Abbaye St Marguerite. Stopping off first at Aubaine.  A small unspoiled little village near Pont d'Ouche

Farm as you enter Aubaine

The other side of the farm at Aubaine

Aubaine wash house

Outside Aubaine wash house

We headed up through the woods, climbing for quite a few miles (pushing our bikes of course!) reaching Crepey by lunch time.  Most of these little villages have a picnic bench, rubbish bin and sometimes a map with suggested walking routes.  There was no mention of the Abbey in the village but we asked a lady who was sitting outside her house and she gave us directions.

On the way to the Abbey

We eventually found the Abbaye and work was clearly being done to attract visitors.  Unfortunately almost nothing could be seen from the road.  http://www.abbayestemarguerite.fr/en/AbbayeSteMargueriteEn/Welcome.html

We decided to carry on to Bouilland, and were glad we did as we passed magnificent limestone cliffs. Bouilland was unusual for a small French village.  It had a bar and a restaurant, mind you, the lady at the bar did look rather surprised to see us.

The square in Bouilland

Blossom tree.  On the way back.  But still uphill!

The valley where Pont d'Ouche is situated - after a relaxing 5 km downhill.

Two cycle rides

Pont de Pany to Milain -  the very long way round.

I had been anticipating our arrival at Pont de Pany as there was 2 archaeological sites that I wanted to see. One was a medieval castle at Malain (3km north) and nearby Roman site.

Milain, with castle on the hill.

We started off and after about 4km with no signs locating these places, I looked at the map and realised we were going in completely the wrong direction.  We carried in what I thought was the right way, but I didn't look closely enough and we went on another wrong road.  The upshot of it all was that we were absolutely exhausted when we arrived at Malain, and so did not go right up to the castle or visit the Roman site!

Early Spring flowers at Agey.  Miles off our proposed route!

We did pass through some very pretty villages (Remilly en Montagne and Pralon) and spectacular coutryside.  Whereas Malain was nothing to write home about.  It did have a little market stall where we bought fresh strawberries, clementines. pears and eggs.

Pralon.  Abandoned church with house tacked on to the end.

Cat near war memorial at Pralin.  They often have bombs on the memorials!

Chaudenay Circuit.
When we arrived in Pont d'Ouche, I wanted to see the little village where we had previously stayed. Chaudenay le Chateau has a chateau with some serious cracks in the walls.


We set out along the towpath to Crugey and then up to Chaudenay le Chateau.  Passed Chaudenay la Ville and from there followed a flatish road to Painblanc, another lovely unspoiled village.  We then climbed up into the hills, forever, or so it seemed at the time.  Finally up to Nais and down the long winding lane back to Thorley sur Ouche and back to the boat.

Catching up. Journey through remoter stretches of River Ouche.

Chilling out at Pont de Pany

We have arrived at our destination Pont d'Ouche, a place we are familiar with.  Lovely setting and Bistrot here is open every day except Tuesdays.  But to go back a few days.

Pont de Pany marks the beginning of a 20 km stretch of the Ouche which is the most remote and beautiful. Limestone cliffs and wooded hills.  A 'D' road follows the river in and out of small villages.

The weather started warming up.  No gloves were needed for our 9am start the next morning and no frost on the boat - another first!  This is me sitting for the very first time in the lovely chairs, kindly left by the previous owners, on our back deck.

A lock keepers cottage in original condition with old apple tree

The lock keepers cottages are as varied as the people who live in them - some are derelict, this one seems uninhabited, yet smartly painted and in its original state.  Some are pristine, others have odd bits of this and that, metal furniture and junk, some of which would fetch quite a bit in an antique fair!

Walk in the woods that surround us

Path up the hill

I wish I had taken some more photos of our cycle rides.  We did a good one from St Victoire sur Ounche back to Gissey sur Ouche.  Up to St Jean de Boeuf.

Cross at the top of a very long hill

Pansies in some funny shaped planters up on the plateau at St Jean de Boeuf.

This goat was the proud head of his large flock of cute mothers and babies,
but none were as impressive as he.

Goat

Our lovely mooring at St Victoire sur Ouche we headed for the lock in the background the next morning.

We have been going through about 6 locks every morning, then arriving at our chosen destination, usually about 5 km upstream, at about 11.15am.  We then have a look round in case there is a boulangerie.  There usually is'nt.  (There is one at La Forge near Bussiere sur Ouche).  Travellers must stock up in the Colruyt in Velars sur Ouche and the boulangerie in Fleurie sur Ouche.  Apart from the boulangerie in La Forge there are no food shops until you get to Pont d'Ouche.  (and there aren't any there either but you can order provisions from supermarket in town 8km away).

Lock just before brand new mooring at Bussier sur Ouche.  Definitely one of the best stops.

So, when we stop at lunchtime, we have some lunch and go cycling for a few hours.  We usually walk the uphill bits, and there have been some tremendously long hills, and then have the fun of going down these endless wooded lanes with absolutely no traffic on them. I have worn out my brake pads as I will fall off if I go too fast.  Julian whizzes down and I keep thinking I will find him in a heap at the bottom.

There is a very grand hotel in an old monastery at Bussiere sur Ouche.  If you walk up into Bussiere it is on your left.  You can get a peek at it occasionally as you walk up.  Then go out of the village and in an anticlockwise direction following the walls.  From this vantage point you can see quite a bit of the buildings and gardens.  Lunch is from 28 euros.  I was quite tempted, but there was nothing much for veggies on the menu and I couldn't be bothered to get dressed up - in fact I haven't really got any smartish clothes with me.

Chateau at Chaudenay de Chateau where we stayed several years ago in a gite.
This time we cycled up there from the boat moored in Pont d'Ouche

Another long haul up to Chaudenay le Chateau

Fleurey sur Ouche.

Evening sun on our mooring at Fleurie sur Ouche

Some friendly ponies behind lock 40

Here is the old bridge over the River Ouche at Fleurey sur Ouche.  We set out from Plombiers sur Ouche at 9am this morning and went through 8 locks arriving just before 12 mid day. We passed Velars sur Ouche, another sizable village with supermarket, petrol station, bar and a few shops.  We had visited on two previous occasions so we did not stop this time.  It is a pleasant spot.

Feurey is perhaps the most picturesque village along this stretch.  It has a Pattisserie, restaurant, tabac and Bar du Centre.  On a previous trip with Sharon and Steve on Encore, we had taken an afternoon walk to Chateau Montculot.

Chateaux Montculot south of Fleurey sur Ouche.  No open to public.

So this time we decided to head north for Chateau Lantenay, another large Chateau, privately owned.  It made a good focal point for a circular cycle ride.  Hard work uphill, but a lovely freewheel down through woods back to Fleurey.

We are now just cruising in the mornings.  9am start with ice on the boat, it soon warms up to about 18 degrees and 25 degrees n the wheelhouse in no time when the doors are shut.

River Ouche at Dleurey sur Ouche.

Along the River Ouche are limestone cliffs, occupied in pre-history.  Merovingian graves and occupation evidence has been found in the hills behind Fleury. 

Limestone cliffs

Before mid day we arrived at Pont de Pany.  We then got on our bikes and cycles along the tow path to Fleurey where we had left the car.  Folded up our bikes and put them in the car and were back on Pont de Pany in 3 or 4 minutes.

Our mooring here at Pont de Pany

An beautifully kept lock keepers cottage between Fleurey sur Ouche and Pont de Pany.

Plombiers les Dijon - an unexpected Garden

You could easily miss Plombiers, it's not much mentioned in navigation cartes or in printed tourist information. But it is worth stopping for several reasons.

Once through the lock the permanently moored boats are on the left, but you can usually find a space next to a hotel barge on the right.

Ignore the blocks of flats that look like cross channel ferries, and the Dijon apartments sprawled over the far hills, the port is tranquil and there are interesting buildings in the town. (Mini Supermarche is over the bridge turn left a bit further down the main road).

There is no electricity or water but we didn't need any.  Had a lovely hot shower as our water tank was hot after cruising for the past 2 hours.

Moored in Plombiers les Dijon

Plombiers has some interesting buildings, but its main charm lies in the wonderful allotment gardens that stretch almost all the way to Dijon.  There is an alternative cycle route to the tow path through these gardens - each one different, and they are delightful - even if, like Julian, you are not a gardener.

Mountains in the distance, then motorway, canal and gardens.

A relaxing place to be on a sunny afternoon.

Route de Grand Crus from Dijon.

One of the most useful things we bought for the boat were our fold up bikes.  We have done miles and miles on them.  Having arrived in Dijon after a days cruising, and having already been to Dijon on a previous trip, we weren't pulled towards the centre of town but in the direction of Chenove, where the Rue de Grand Crus  - the famous Burgundy wine route begins. The first sign for this is near the memorial at the port.

Just follow the Rue de Chenove. Route de Grand Crus. Marsenay church tower in the distance.

Once on this route by bike, you need to look out for a way to your right (or west) as you want to find the tiny lanes through the vines rather than the car routes - it's not hard if you keep your eyes peeled and head right once the built up area begins to peter out. Keep a tourist map with you and you won't go far wrong.

Dijon tower blocks in the distance.

We enjoyed a sunny evening cycle - the clocks changed last weekend so the evenings are longer and at last the sun has come out. Got as far as Marsennay la Cote 8 km from Dijon.

Dijon - Hotel California

After the flat lands and ruralness of the journey so far, one has expectations on turning up in Dijon. Expectations of facilities that perhaps are not available in the back of beyond, but will be in a city.  Well those expectations are unfounded - the port of Dijon has gone native.  All the guest moorings are taken up by the raggle taggle resident or unused boats.  The other moorings with electricity are for hotel barges. There are no signs or information for boaters.  It's every man or woman for themselves!

Lots of birds around the port and on the island including some geese I had never seen before.  Bar headed geese I think.  All of Dijon awaits just a few minutes bike ride away.  Good cycle lanes here - and a large vegetarian/organic store and cafe near the post office. You can get a map showing all the designated cycle routes in the tourist information.

You can see how early in the season we are.  The trees have not come into leaf.

At last we have left Dijon!

Dijon felt a bit like the Hotel California.  We could head out any time we liked, but until we found a lock keeper, we could never leave.  As Dijon has absolutely zero information for boaters and we wondered how on earth we were going to find the elcusier to open the locks for us to leave.  We decided the only thing we could do was to sit the boat in the next lock and wait.  At least that way no boat could go up or down without us moving first (but there are so few boats at the moment, that we could have been waiting for days!)).  At 'Eclusle Larry' lo and behold, we found that the lock keepers cottage was a little VNF office where the lock keepers hang out.  But they certainly keep their whereabouts close to their chests. Everyone assumes the VNF office is by port, the one which is permanently boarded up!

Sun comes out as we make for Dijon.

If you're cruising from Saint Jean de Losne to Dijon, you have probably been told that it is a very straight boring bit of canal.  Well it is definitely straight, but having cruised and cycled it numerous times, I can confidently say that there are some interesting stopping places.

Longecourt-en-Plaine, of course, with its beautiful chateau.  You can visit the garden and stay in the chateaux.  It is also possible to cycle to Citeaux Abbey from here, although we did not do this.

There is a village that sits on a sort of saddle shaped hill to the north east.  This is Tart le Haut.  (We previously cycled from Saint Jean de Losne to nearby Tart L'Abbaye). Tart le Haut is distinctive as there is a large church with two towers (the eclusier said it was designed as a smaller version of Notre Dam in Paris) and it is about the only hill in the area.

Further on Bretiniere makes a good stopping point - you are surrounded by apple orchards.  There is a chateau nearby which you cannot visit but if you go down near the wall their is a boggy area and in late April it is covered in wild garlic. There is an attractive mooring area and nearby is Magapomme.  Selling locally grown apples, fresh vegetables and deli items.  There is also a garden centre and Colruyt supermarche.

From here to Dijon you will see a line of hills stretching to the south.  This is the Cote d'or.

This is one of the massive grain silos that are often seen along the canal bank.
The cycle path is unmade until you get to Beauregard, when it changes to tarmac - bliss! Remember I'm cycling next to the boat not on it. After that the countryside ends and you are in the outskirts of Dijon.

Still waiting for canal to open - Visit to Beaune, cycle rides

We almost went on a wine tasting tour today.  It's hard not to when in Beaune, but also very difficult to decide which of the wine tours to go on.  Anyhow, I got the time wrong and the last tour and our chosen cellar tour left half an hour before.  We had left the car at Chorley les Beaune and cycled in through the vineyards.  So we had a wander round, avoided the rain, and cycled back!  We were quite excited as Sian and Jolyon had told us that they were getting married!  So wedding talk and planning proved a welcome distraction from yet more rain.

Abbaye Tarte - Abbaye Tarte, 10 km from our mooring was, I think, an order of Cistercian nuns founded in 1120.  In my map clearly marked 'Vestiges de Abbaye Tarte, but in reality there was absolutely nothing there since it burned down in 1638.  This was confirmed by a local.  Never mind, the cycle ride was worth it. Anemonies and cowslips all the way and the trees just starting to come into leaf - beautiful!

First day cruise up the Bourgogne - not cruising weather!

After waiting a week for the canal to open Easter Saturday dawned, rainy and windy - what's new.  The French are keen fishermen and a large crowd, umbrellas up, lined the bank just upstream from us.

Think of Burgundy and you think of Chateaux, vineyards, quaint towns - Saint Jeane de Losne, the boating capital of France is not like that.  It's a workaday town with no pretensions what so ever.  Hence we were not surprised to find ourselves moored next to a factory that looked like a 1960's Soviet era nuclear power station that belched smoke 24/7 and smelt like burnt cardboard.

Rain stopped and so having no excuse not to leave we untied and made out way to first lock. We had decided that as we were going upstream and the locks were close together, that I would stay on the bike and get to each lock in advance ready for Julian to hand me the hook. I could then reach down and pick up the ropes from the deck.  If I had stayed on board with him I would have to leap onto and up the ladder in the lock to get onto the lockside ready to hold the rope  or be dropped off before each lock. (Eclusiers tend not to expect to give any help, their job is purely to open and close the lock for you).

So with the boat hook I would hook the back rope over the rear bollard and give the rope back to Julian who would keep the tension at the back near the wheelhouse, I then go to the front bollard, reach the ready prepared rope from the deck with my hook, wrap it round the front bollard and keep the tension at the front.

We had a very grumpy first lock keeper whose technique for closing the rear gates was to let rip the front sluices and use the force of water through the lock send the back ones crashing shut - and to hell with the boat which bounced around in the maelstrom of rushing water - charming!

Apart from sharp showers and blustery winds it was a pleasant ride alongside Quercy, and Julian was completely confident steering the boat in and out of the narrow locks in no time.  Masses of cowslips and violets lined the path.  Nearby woods were carpeted with anemonies and the blackthorn were bursting into flower.

We passed the beautiful Chateau Longecourt where we have previously stayed - the most beautiful Chateaux in the world! Here is me pretending it's mine.

Walking from terrace to garden. Our room is in the tower.

Rear terrace looking towards church

Rear terrace which is a bridge over the moat