Gray and the empty middle

Kerb crawling along the (unusually) long concrete quay on the approaches to Gray, we passed the usual motley line of boats and hoped to find a gap near the front with a view towards the large curved weir, which when we arrived was covered with dozens of swans. The Ecluse was to the left hand bank and an interesting fish pass was squeezed between the two. The stone bridge with 10 arches lay just beyond, and the Ecluse is situated under one of these arches. Gray is a major bridging point on the Saone.

Couples either looked smugly from their already bagged vantage point, or waved cheerily as we passed, depending on their mood.  Although Julian is absolutely brilliant at parking the boat, like parking a car, it is always difficult to work out whether you can fit into a space until you are actually opposite it, and with a boat in no time you find you have just passed it!

I identified the largest gap and Julian swung round in a beautiful curve, and pointed the boat into the middle of the gap.  I passed the rope to a convenient bystander (didn't have to jump for a change) and with the front rope fixed to a mooring ring, he pulled gently forwards on the throttle and the back swung in - perfect!

Gray is apparently built ampitheatre style in a curve in the low hillside - we haven't been out yet to find out.  The river frontage is a  fairly attractive mixture of old and new, tree lined for the most part, but without much actual commerce going on.  A continual stream of traffic moves back and forth over the low stone bridge, but it's the same old story, a massive LeClerc hypermarket to the side of the centre, a hypermarket on the other side of the river, lots of concrete housing blocks on the outskirts, still further out more affluent detached concrete boxes surrounded by gardens, and an almost completely empty, beautiful, yet crumbling old town in the middle!  All the shopping is done out of town, all the living is done out of town, so there is no role left for the old centre except for a few small shops and cafes scratching a living and the older monuments that are tourist attractions.

Town Hall

Fortified Auxonne

A quick mention for Auxonne, a town where young Napoleon Bonaparte was eager to teach Artillary at the military academy, and where a series of fortifications have over the centuries, with differing degrees of success, held the town against ruffians arriving by river boat and invading armies.

The Castle, at the heart of the fortifications is open from 7am until 8pm and you are free to wander.  Unobtrusive interpretation boards tell the history in French, English and German.

There is a large Port de Plaisance, the capitanaire is Australian.  For some reason, when we have passed this way, the port always seems to hold more than the usual number of interesting older boats and barges.

Early Morning on the Saone

Occasionally we are treated to a view that seems completely timeless.  The river stretches out in front of us, there are trees, a heron, even a white heron, waiting and staring motionless in the water, a swan glides gracefully towards the bank, and kingfishers dart across from one side to the other.

Saone at Verdun-sur-Doubs.  Not timeless as you can see channel markers.

Not so timeless here either with modern bridge

During these rare moments, there is no sight of the large red or green channel markers, no bridge, no other boat and not even the ubiquitous wooden jetties used by the fishermen in their little motor launches.  Not even a fisherman given away by a puff of white smoke from his cigarette, and a glint as he casts his line into the mirror calm water.

Sheep on an old lock

Beyond the next bend and we are back in the 21st century, or at least the 20th century, with one of the huge locks constructed for modern commercial vessels.  Our boat seems dwarfed by such a massive structure, but even our 55 ft boat looks large compared to the small motor pleasure cruisers that are found everywhere on the Saone. When you see one of these tiny boats in a massive lock, you can't help but wonder at the thousands of tons of water that must be displaced for something so small.

Entrance to Seurre lock.  Right, large commercial moored, small Freycinet commercial with car leaving lock, cruiser waiting in front of us to enter.

Commercial vessel

Our first day cruising the Saone yesterday, we traveled 60 km from Fleurville to Gergy averaging 10 km per hour. Today we hope to get to Auxonne.

La Roche Solutre

We visited La Roche Solutre in July, but it was at the end of the holiday and the internet was slow.
It is where thousands of horse and other animals bones, slaughtered in pre-history, were found at the base of the rock.

La Roche Solutre

It was such an evocative place.

Another rock viewed from La Roche Solutre

There are two significant rock formations in the area to the West of Macon surrounded by historic wine villages and many many vines.

Typical countryside in the region, vines, villages and woods.  This was taken from the top of the Roche

Conservation of plant species is aided by grazing of horses thought to be decended from prehistoric breeds.