Gray and the empty middle

Kerb crawling along the (unusually) long concrete quay on the approaches to Gray, we passed the usual motley line of boats and hoped to find a gap near the front with a view towards the large curved weir, which when we arrived was covered with dozens of swans. The Ecluse was to the left hand bank and an interesting fish pass was squeezed between the two. The stone bridge with 10 arches lay just beyond, and the Ecluse is situated under one of these arches. Gray is a major bridging point on the Saone.

Couples either looked smugly from their already bagged vantage point, or waved cheerily as we passed, depending on their mood.  Although Julian is absolutely brilliant at parking the boat, like parking a car, it is always difficult to work out whether you can fit into a space until you are actually opposite it, and with a boat in no time you find you have just passed it!

I identified the largest gap and Julian swung round in a beautiful curve, and pointed the boat into the middle of the gap.  I passed the rope to a convenient bystander (didn't have to jump for a change) and with the front rope fixed to a mooring ring, he pulled gently forwards on the throttle and the back swung in - perfect!

Gray is apparently built ampitheatre style in a curve in the low hillside - we haven't been out yet to find out.  The river frontage is a  fairly attractive mixture of old and new, tree lined for the most part, but without much actual commerce going on.  A continual stream of traffic moves back and forth over the low stone bridge, but it's the same old story, a massive LeClerc hypermarket to the side of the centre, a hypermarket on the other side of the river, lots of concrete housing blocks on the outskirts, still further out more affluent detached concrete boxes surrounded by gardens, and an almost completely empty, beautiful, yet crumbling old town in the middle!  All the shopping is done out of town, all the living is done out of town, so there is no role left for the old centre except for a few small shops and cafes scratching a living and the older monuments that are tourist attractions.

Town Hall

Fortified Auxonne

A quick mention for Auxonne, a town where young Napoleon Bonaparte was eager to teach Artillary at the military academy, and where a series of fortifications have over the centuries, with differing degrees of success, held the town against ruffians arriving by river boat and invading armies.

The Castle, at the heart of the fortifications is open from 7am until 8pm and you are free to wander.  Unobtrusive interpretation boards tell the history in French, English and German.

There is a large Port de Plaisance, the capitanaire is Australian.  For some reason, when we have passed this way, the port always seems to hold more than the usual number of interesting older boats and barges.

Early Morning on the Saone

Occasionally we are treated to a view that seems completely timeless.  The river stretches out in front of us, there are trees, a heron, even a white heron, waiting and staring motionless in the water, a swan glides gracefully towards the bank, and kingfishers dart across from one side to the other.

Saone at Verdun-sur-Doubs.  Not timeless as you can see channel markers.

Not so timeless here either with modern bridge

During these rare moments, there is no sight of the large red or green channel markers, no bridge, no other boat and not even the ubiquitous wooden jetties used by the fishermen in their little motor launches.  Not even a fisherman given away by a puff of white smoke from his cigarette, and a glint as he casts his line into the mirror calm water.

Sheep on an old lock

Beyond the next bend and we are back in the 21st century, or at least the 20th century, with one of the huge locks constructed for modern commercial vessels.  Our boat seems dwarfed by such a massive structure, but even our 55 ft boat looks large compared to the small motor pleasure cruisers that are found everywhere on the Saone. When you see one of these tiny boats in a massive lock, you can't help but wonder at the thousands of tons of water that must be displaced for something so small.

Entrance to Seurre lock.  Right, large commercial moored, small Freycinet commercial with car leaving lock, cruiser waiting in front of us to enter.

Commercial vessel

Our first day cruising the Saone yesterday, we traveled 60 km from Fleurville to Gergy averaging 10 km per hour. Today we hope to get to Auxonne.

La Roche Solutre

We visited La Roche Solutre in July, but it was at the end of the holiday and the internet was slow.
It is where thousands of horse and other animals bones, slaughtered in pre-history, were found at the base of the rock.

La Roche Solutre

It was such an evocative place.

Another rock viewed from La Roche Solutre

There are two significant rock formations in the area to the West of Macon surrounded by historic wine villages and many many vines.

Typical countryside in the region, vines, villages and woods.  This was taken from the top of the Roche

Conservation of plant species is aided by grazing of horses thought to be decended from prehistoric breeds.

Louhans and cycling in France

Louhans made me think about  cycling - not that we actually cycled there, but there were lots of people on bikes; locals weaving in and out of the market, tourists on the river paths, kids zooming around street corners, all cheek by jowel with pedestrians and on the whole managing to avoid each other.  The French are very tolerant of people on bikes - by that I mean ordinary people going about their business, not groups with special cycling outfits, head down and lets get there and back as fast as we can. Althought there are very many of these groups aswell.

Where there are no cycle paths, careful riding on the pavement in urban areas seems to be accepted, and in many areas, with pavements wide enough, there are labels painted on the ground to separate pedestrians and cyclists

Almost every city and large town has a good many cycle paths and as much of the valley of the Saone is flat, we have been able to get around everywhere on bikes no problem.

Poultry market at Louhan Monday market

Julian in shady corner of bar with market going on behind.  

We were only just in time to have a tea 'avec du lait froid' and 'grande cafe au lait' our usual.  Soon every vacated table was wiped and laid with paper place setting, knife, fork and wine glass to signify time for 'le dejeuner' and that only diners should sit there.

Louhans port

Galleried shops Louhans

Packing up after the market.  The best we have seen in France by a long chalk.

A day in Lyon.

Whilst in Tournus we saw the tiny street and passageways 'traboules' that are a feature of towns and cities here.  Lyon was said to have many of these, and an old quarter whose houses were built on Roman foundations.  Also a Roman ampitheatre and the silk workers quarter.  Silk was one of the industries for which Lyon was famed in former times, but the workers were poorly paid and laboured in cramped and unhealthy conditions.

Saone at Lyon

Market on banks of the Saone

Same market place after lunch

First Stop the Catherdal where we left our bikes

Up the funicular to the Baptistry

View from the Baptistry - a prominent landmark but nothing special close up. Views were good though.

One of two Roman Ampitheatres.  Both very heavily restored.

We saw some wonderful Roman Mosaics in the museam next to ampitheatre..

Stairs leading back down to old town

Apart from an argument at lunch time, we had a lovely day.  No time to see silk workers area, that will be for the next time we are floating in this direction. As for the argument, it could only be about one thing - what and where we would eat! Living with a vegetarian is not always easy! Of course living with me is perfect.

Along the River Bank. Tournus to La Truchere and a bit further, via River Saone and River Sielle - and the closest I got to 'wild' swimming.

As soon as we left the Canal du Centre and entered the River Saone I was keen to find a spot for wild swimming - or if not 'wild' then at least not in a swimming pool or a tourist lake.  This proved more difficult that I expected.  The river Saone is quite fast flowing and beautifully clear in the deep chanels, but of course these are out of the question as huge tour ships and commercial barges are fairly frequent and the current is strong.  There are spots along the bank that look tempting from the boat, but in fact the bottom is incredibly sludgy and slimy, and the weed is very creepy when you are in the midst of it.

Along the river bank with Swans, Little Egrets, Heron and Charolaise cattle are a comon sight.
Also delightful Kingfishers fairly easy to spot.

Less common, we saw a European Bee Eater, Corncrakes and a bird that looks like a small Heron, but I don't think it is a young heron but a different species.

Me on a 'lead' in lovely clear deep water off the pontoon in the centre of Tournus!

On a sweltering day this was bliss - the German lady in the boat next to us followed suit.

I had a good look for swimming places up the Sielle and even the river upstream of Pont de Vaux, but they were too small and looked murky.  Nothing so far has beaten the River Armancon to the South that follows some of the Burgundy Canal (Saint Vinnemer, near Tanlay) for a combination of location, deep water pools, clean water and slow flowing.

Lock at La Truchere.

La Truchere is the first stop along the banks of the Sielle.  Here we moored up in a slightly tricky, but delightful spot.  We were treated to the most delicious meal by some new friends and were shown around their lovely home. As we are quite often the ones who do the cooking for others, it was such a treat, in fact perfection - what a delightful evening.

We then followed the Sielle up just one lock to Cuisery - one of the 'book' towns of France - I have to say, only really interesting if you can read French and are not as addicted to your Kindle - as we are.

River Saone and Tournus

Tournus has a real sense of the past, well preserved, no ugly suburban sprawl.  The town is lived in.

A strange and disturbing ritual happens every night on the quay where we are moored on a pontoon.  In the Lime trees lining the bank are thousands of Starlings.  I admit they do make the front promenade smell and they do poop on diners in the cafes.

Tourusaian solution: man with van and ghetto blaster playing (very loudly) the sound of masses of angry birds.  At each tree he stops pulls out a pole, puts pole up the tree (again very loud) banger with flash. Starlings fly off in their thousands.  By the time he has got to the end of the avenue of trees, the Starlings have returned to the other end.

House within a house

Quercy on pontoon. Trees with Starlings at night.

Abbaye Cloister. Abbaye Saint Philibert

Tourist information is very helpful with free Wifi that anyone can access if they are nearby. Benches outside at a premium for this reason!

Maison opposite Abbeye

Eglise Sainte Madeleine beyond a typical narrow street similar ones in Lyon south of here. Everywhere is clean. People live in these houses.  Quite unusual for a typical Burgundian town.  Most centres are empty and people live in blocks or bungalows on the outskirts.

Passage du Beif Potet.  A 'traboule', narrow lane

Chassey Le Camp - Neolithic Hilltop Fortification

On the way up

At the top we saw 2 hang gliders take off

On the way down

In the valley again , with a short walk back to start point