Crochet top nearly finished - raining all day rewarded by beautiful sunset on arrival at Joingy

Crochet tank top for Rachel almost finished.

Made from Scottish made Shilasdair yarn (cashmere, baby camel, angora and lambswool) and dyed with wild Skye Tansy. My design, simple repeat  pattern of 2 treble crochet, 2 chain with single crochet edging. 

We are now cruising back up the Yonne to Migennes, the weather is alternately sunny then raining cats and dogs - Julian steering and as there is about 4-5km between locks I decided to finish this off en route.

Rachel's visit Auxerre to Sens

Rachel on Quercy at Sens

We said a fold goodbye to Rachel yesterday who had been with us for 4 days when we cruised down the Yonne towards the Seine from Auxerre to Sens.

Sens Railway Station at 4.30pm French time - one hour ahead.
She will be in London at 8.30pm London time.

Sens Cathedral the 'first' Gothic Cathedral. 

Modern altar and font in Sens Cathedral

Sens Cathedral was one of the loveliest Cathedrals we have visited.  We also enjoyed the museum that is housed in the adjacent former Palace of Archbishops.  Interesting prehistory, Metal Age and Roman collections as well as ancient textiles.




We have found River cruising quite different from the canals.  Large towns are more frequent.  Between Auxerre and Sens are: Migennes, Joigny, and Villneuve sur Yonne. The locks are bigger, and as we approach the area surrounding Paris the countryside seems slightly less remote and there are more modern industrial buildings. Although we have seen large old working barges moored up, we suspect these are live aboard boats rather that commercial vessels.

In the Crypt at Abbey of Saint Germain d'Auxerre

When you arrive in Auxerre by boat three churches sit impressively on raised ground on the west bank of the River Yonne.  To the North is the Abbey of Saint Germain d'Auxerre, now housing art exhibitions, a museum, cloisters and the crypt (above) where empty sarcophagi as well as the foundations of earlier phases of the building are visible beneath your feet.

Next it the Cathedral St Etienne, where you can also visit a crypt.

Auxerre Cathedral

Followed by Eglise St Pierre.  All of these churches are really quite similar in their construction so you can easily get them mixed up!

Sian Charlotte and Jolyon with us on Quercy

Cycling back along the River Yonne

Our mooring at Auxerre

Wine tasting at the caves at Bailey.  Sian and Julian in the centre.

Sian and Charlotte near the fountain in Auxerre

Sian, Jolyon and Charlotte stayed with us for 3 nights.  They joined us in Migennes - the first rain we had seen in 3 weeks and it had to come on that day.  Things soon brightened up though.

Walking to the fountain on the last morning

In the lock just before Auxerre

We cycled to the caves near Bailey

Myriam's photos

To follow

Last night at Tanlay

I've just been on my evening constitutional walk which happens around 8.30pm at dusk or 'dimpsey' as Westcoutry folk are apt to say.  The walk takes me past the other moored boats in the port and along the short stretch of canal that leads from the pond of the port to the lock.  It looks a bit like an infinity pool as the land drops down on the other side and tonight the moon was glistening on the water making it look far nicer than it does in daylight when it looks a bit murky - hardly surprising when you consider what is discharged in there in the wake of the pleasure boats!

So it was my last walk and the last time I would walk past the apple tree that in the last week has seen apples ripen and glow, little green glowing balls on the tree for about a week, and then fall to the ground.  They looked beautiful and now lie in a rather brown mess at the base.  More than Myriam and I could hope to eat - although we tried!  We have also eaten a good many Mirabelle plums from two trees that are in the port.  Unfortunately the boughs are just too high to reach and by the time they fall down with a good shake of the tree, they will be past their best and rather woolly.  Anyhow, that has not happened yet and they remain up there - unreachable and in their prime.

As I reach the lock and walk over the metal grating that sits on top of the lock gates I can see the gush of water that continually spills through, so the water is never completely at a standstill in the canal - there is always a bit of flow, and more so when the locks are working.

Wandering back up on the other side there is a very good view of the boats, and I must say that Quercy does look beautiful and many people take photos of her.  To get back on the other side where she is moored one has to walk up over the bridge that takes road traffic over the canal.  As I took this last walk over the bridge I heard a Tawney Owl for the first time.  August 13th.  Has it just arrived, or just decided to start calling tonight?

Immediately after that comes the smell of pizza from the Pizzeria du Port.  At 30 degrees plus even at 9 oclock at night those kitchens must be hot! It's a bustling little place always busy from mid morning to about 10.30pm, but although we are almost on top of it, there is never much noise after this time. People come to eat drink laugh and chat and then go home.  So getting quiet now - people are leaving, the candle is flickering on our table out on the back deck where I am sitting and lots of little dark grey moths are bothering me!

3 chateaux, 3 days

Gtaham going to great lengths to get that shot!

We have thoroughly enjoyed the last 3 days with Myriam and Graham.  Started off at our local chateau here in Tanlay.

Tanlay



Many interesting interior rooms to see on the tour as well as grounds and art exhibition in old stables.

Myriam in the stables at Ancy le Franc. Art exhibition by France Wagner.

The following morning we set off for Chateau Beru for a tour and wine tasting.  A small wine growing estate where we were given a private tour by the owner who had lived and worked the estate for many generations.  Very interesting tour with wine tasting in their cave.

We then headed off to Chablis for lunch at

Au Fil du Zinc 

Beach at Tonnerre

Followed by a swim at the river beach at Tonnerre.






The following morning we paid a visit to the wonderful Chateau at Ancy le Franc.  This was our second visit.  The wall paintings and furnishings are well worth another visit  (there is so much to see) and we were able to see the stables this time, these were closed on our first visit.

Ancy le Franc courtyard

Chateau de Maulnes - a unique castle with no parallel anywhere.

Chateau de Maulnes. Well at the centre of the castle spanning roof to cellar.  A staircase winds around it.

Chateau Maulnes is the only hexagonal Chateau in France.  It reminded me of what in England we would call a 'folly' but on a grand scale.

A bit like Castle Drogo near us on Dartmoor.  Clad in scaffolding.

We were sitting in the boat at 5pm this afternoon.  I was sewing and Julian reading.  He looked up from his book and said 'Shall we go out?' I find it difficult to sit still for very long, and it had been several hours since we walked a whole 10 metres from the Cafe du Port to our boat, so I said, 'We could do a little circuit in the car?  We keep seeing signs for 'Chateau Maulnes' but we haven't been there yet.  So we set out and ambled through typical Burgundy countryside, large open fields of cut wheat, dense green forests and small villages with a church spire at their heart, only really intending to look from the outside.

Soon we saw Chateau Maulnes on a hill and the road widened to accommodate a car parking area. We were just walking up a steep flight of steps when a golf buggy stopped at the top in front of us and the man driving it beckoned us to get in.  Of we went further up the hill and soon we were right in front of the Chateau.  A lady said 'Billet pour deux personnes?'  what could we say except 'Oui!'  We had arrived with about 30 seconds to spare for the last (5.30pm) tour of the day.

What an interesting place!  Tour was in French but we borrowed an excellent English spiral bound illustrated tour translation. 2.5 euros per person.

Noyers-sur=Serein, a beautiful town that used to be even more beautiful.

Noyers is surrounded by a huge loop in the River Serein and is probably the most beautiful small town I have visited in France.  It retains many medieval buildings and has some interesting shops, mostly selling local products.

A ball of locally reared, spun and died sheep's wool purchased from Noyers

In one shop that used to be a rich merchants house a lady in an owl mast poked her head out of the window and twit twoo'd at me.

The window with the lady with owl mask

We went on a little tour with guided by an elderly man who spoke no English.  The tour was a bit over priced at 15 euros considering is comprised of a tour round a small bone dry garden, a walk up a one story watch tower and a peek in a room containing armour. We spend most of the time flicking through a plastic folder of photos taken of this man in medieval costume about 20 years ago =he really enjoyed it.

Julian reluctantly donning spear and shield

We did hear some interesting facts though.  Noyers was the most beautiful fortified town, almost like a miniature Carcassonne, but unfortunately Voillet le duc was not there to rescue it.  The demolition that has taken place is quite incredible when one sees plans of the former Chateau and the former towers, now  used as sheds or garages.

Noyers

It remains a lovely place.

Two good things about Tonnerre

We had been here over a week and not been into Tonnerre, the general consensus from those who we had met was that they had been under-whelmed by the town. Especially the mooring (the worst place in Tonnerre)

Fosse Dione, Tonerre wash house and artesian spring

Fosse Dione

Fosse Dione

Anyhow it was Saturday morning market day and we thought we'd check out the campsite to see if Sian might like to stay there after she leaves us.

We cycled there 8 km along the tow path of course.

Tonnerre Saturday morning market a few good stalls - plus of course the beds!

We have learned to moderate our expectations of small French towns, so we weren't expecting much. Tonnerre turned out to be interesting.

A covered market is being restored.  The Fosse Dion definitely lived up to it's billing on every poster you ever see advertising Tonnerre, there are pleasant walks around the town, and we found a good patisserie.  We bought goats cheese and basil puffs, a potato pastry thing and a cassis and almond tart to share washed down with some small multi coloured tomatoes from the market.  We ate these at the other brilliant things about Tonnerre - the river swimming area! But as my phone is not picking up internet I cannot load the photos at the moment.

Here is the lovely swimming spot.  The area above the weir has been dredged so it is a fantastic large open expanse of water that is satisfyingly deep.

It's a 9.5km cycle ride to Tonnerre from Tanlay along the tow path.  I perfect distance  for a ride and swim.  Temperatures in low 30's nice an hot to appreciate the cooling water of the river.

Wine Tasting

We are in the heart of the Chablis region and this has caused me to think a little bit about wine producers and wines.  I have established that Chablis is made with Chardonnay Grapes and the stoney soil round here makes a crisp mineral wine as opposed to the oaky fruitier Chardonnays grown elsewhere in the world. In the Chabis region only white Chardonnay grapes are grown. Nearby Irancy, East of Auxerre is known for reds, and reds are also found to the South of the Cote d'Or, but here Chablis reigns.

Since we have been cruising in Burgundy we have tried quite a few wines ranging in price from 5 euros to 25 euros bought from shops, but so far price has not been any assurance of a wine we like, and it is impossible to know what to choose.

So I realise I've got to get out there and taste some! But there is another problem.  The roads are littered with signs for 'Degustations'.  A funny word as it sounds a but like 'Disgusting' which is the opposite of what a wine tasting is supposed to be!  So where to start, which one to choose? We had to take the plunge somewhere so we started at Chassignelles near Ancy le France (chateau) Domaine de L'Erable.

Due to advances by another suitor after the wine tasting, Julian picked up the nearest sword to defend my honour, it was all I could do to stop him running the other man through.

Having emailed in advance, we turned up in the farmyard by the 'Desgustation Ouvert' sign and loitered about a bit before a youngish lady (farmers wife) came out and unlocked their 'cave'.  This was not an actual cellar, but a modernish farm building that had been converted into a pleasant room displaying wines local honey and truffles, with the obligatory oak barrel on which were a number of glasses, and a list of the wines produced and the prices.

We started off with 'petit Chablis' at 8 euros.  Quite nice, very drinkable.  Then on to a 'Chablis Vielles Vignes' at 13 euros, yes, we liked that one too, and finally a Premier Cru 2010 that was from a neighbouring vineyard. It did not live up to our expectations of a Premier Cru, nothing like as fresh as the others - dare I say a bit watery and musty!  I then asked the lady which was her favourite and she mentioned one of the wines at 9 euros, that we had not chosen to try.  We duly tasted this other wine and I also thought it was the best. We went off happily with 8 bottles 4 each of the two wines we liked the most. Note to self,
'remember to always ask which one the wine producer likes to drink themselves'.

All calm again now back on the boat.  A hotel barge arrived while we were out, plus a Linsen boat, so there is probably no problem with the water levels after all.

Not about France at all

We had something so momentous happen in May, and I can't believe I resisted the temptation to mention it before.  Daughter Sian, and Jolyon Sandercock of Tintagel in Cornwall got married at Bovey Castle Hotel near us in Moretonhampstead! So this is an extra-ordinary little post to mark the ocassion. We had a wonderful day with our family and met Jolyon's family all of whom were delightful.

Rachel, Ben and me

Sister Tracy, daughter Rachel and my mum

Julian!

Sian - just one of her wonderful qualities is her ability to laugh. 

Me and the delightful Charlotte - daughter of Jolyon.

Mum and Simon

Oscar Gould

Bride and Groom

Charlotte and Sian

Tracy - she would make a good Bodecia leading the ancient Brittons to battle.