Santenay: Santenay-Nolay Voie Verte/Cycle Path

If you are cruising along the Canal du Centre you could easily miss Santenay - I'm sure that many people do as there is nothing much more than a picnic area, like many other picnic areas along the canal, to signify that anything lies beyond.  What lies beyond is one of the most picturesque and beautifully located wine villages in Burgundy, bustling in late July, spraying vines and clipping any stray shoots to ensure all the energy goes into the growing fruit.

It lies between the Cote d'or (Cote de Beaune?) and the Cote Challonaise, and I'm not sure to which it belongs.  I think it may be the southern most tip of the Cote D'or, anyhow, it marks the end of the line of hills from Dijon to the North and Santenay in the South and there are some interesting limestone crags visible from the mooring on the canal.  Unfortunately we are moored just a few metres before this lovely gap in the trees, that gives onto the viewpoint.  A cruiser with New Zealand owners having pipped us to the post.  They are moving on tomorrow - we think (depending on how pressing their need to do a clothes wash in Chalon sur Saone).  So we may well be able to take their place.  For those on boats, head for the flower tubs and glass recycling bin, about 50 metres from the bridge towards Chagney.  Chagney, (pronounced Shany) 6km East, has a rather soulless new marina, and none of the charm of Santenay. It does have a Michellin starred Restaurant - but being vegetarian, that holds no attraction for Julian.

View South from cycle path

View South from cycle path showing rows of vines in the distance

Yet another cycle path, constructed on the bed of a disused railway line - we chose the 9km route to Nolay.  (We could have headed North through the vines to all the famous wine villages of the Cote d'or)

Nolay is another wine village much frequented by holidaymakers, although this has not prevented many shops to close.  It is a centre for antiques/brocante, and there were more of these shops than anything else.

XIV covered market in Nolay 

If you are considering cycling this route then do not start at Nolay!  From Santenay it is a steady gentle climb up the entire 9km to Nolay and the only thing that keeps you going is the thought of freewheeling all 9km back down again.

There is a lot more to this area than wine tasting.  Although there are wine tasting cellars at every turn, the old wine villages are beautiful and the wine making culture is interesting to see, even if you don't taste a drop!