Day 1. Insider Berlin. Places to go - places not to go - places to go

We are now in Berlin and the first thing that I want to say is that it has fantastic bike lanes!
You can see here a clear lane for bike going straight on so they get space between the lines of cars.  This makes it such a pleasure and so easy to cycle round the city without getting squeezed in between the traffic.

Looking toward Prenzlaurberg, you can see the church at the end of Immanuelkirshestrasse where Rachel lives.

Berlin is unlike any city that I have ever been to and I'm trying to workout why this is. It's full of little independent shops - apart from the odd Lydl or Aldi, you rarely come across any hypermarkets.  There are lots of medium sized organic 'bio' shops, and so many cafes and many 'vegan cafes'.

On our first night here we went to Si'an, known for its Asian cuisine (Rykestraße 36), which emphasises the vegan food and you can add chicken or other meats as an add on. 

Rachel and I outside Si an

Si an is located in Prenzlaurberg one of the upmarket areas of Berlin to the North East of Mitte (the middle). Umami is a similar place opposite the interesting Wasserturm, or water tower, build by an Englishman in the 19th century and well worth a look round the back as the 4 old associated structures.

Nearby is open air Mauerpark Market open every Sunday.  Flea market, Karaoke, Food, part of Berlin wall.

Prenzlaurberg is just one of the districts that is an interesting place to go when in Berlin - a sense of old Berlin and the thriving art, craft, music and food culture that exist in many of Berlin's districts.  

  

East side Gallery. Art of Berlin Wall. When in Berlin the best way to get around is by bike. Julian thinking 'how much longer do I have to wait her for this photo!'

Assuming that you are here in the warmer months, a bike gives you the opportunity to experience refreshing breezes a you go.  You can cover a good deal of ground and pass by many of the less interesting monolithic structures that are have sprung up in the past 10 or so years.  Bike hire is 12 euros a day, lots of places to hire bikes, or 25 euros for an electric bike from the Fat Tyre bike company in Alexanderplatz under the tower.

Whilst this central area is best avoided in my opinion, I have sometimes been clothes shopping with Rachel in the area to the North and East of Hackercher Markt in Mitte. Some small chain boutiques and independents - all a bit different from UK - I think. One incredibly expensive Jewish boutique where a lot of items look worn out! One of those places that you need to look like a million dollars just to feel comfortable going in there - needless to say we did not.

Places not to go (in my opinion!)

Alexanderplatz from our hotel lobby bottom of hill Prenzlaurberg going into Mitte telecom tower and tourist centre 

Some of the tourist hotspots that we passed through mercifully quickly on our bikes.
Most tourists inevitably find themselves at Alexanderplatz. Little remains of its historic past and is centred on the massively tall telecom mast which can be seen from many parts of the city.  It's good for bike hire and tours (Fat Tyre bike tours recommended) and tourist shops and the usual high street restaurants and chain stores Galeria, Primark etc etc, but don't expect to get a sense of old Berlin here.

Museum Island looking north

Museum Island looking south

Continue down Karl-Liebknecht-Straße  and you arrive at Museum Island, another magnet for tourists.  I've only been in the fine art museum, but to be quite honest, I've seen enough museums to last a lifetime and I find them quite exhausting.  By the time I've traipsed through a museum I'm finished for the day.  

Continue on your armchair tour down to where Karl-Liebknecht-Straße becomes Bundestrasse and you are heading towards Brandenburg Gate  (Tor) and the nearby Reishstag. This is where you can learn the history of these buildings and their significance in Berlin's and Germany's history.  A little further on to the south is the 

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, a striking monument with a large dip in the middle so it looks empty from one angle and from the other you can see the little alleys at a lower level with many people in them.

Brandenburg Tor with funny circular bike

Hare Krushna near Brandenburg Tor

Heading on to Potsdammer Platz you will find a massive road junction and masses of new and futuristic buildings, plenty of chain store shopping opportunities and basically you could be in any city in the world - nothing shouts - Berlin.

Potzdamer Platz more nice bike lanes - but not very scenic!

Potsdamer Platz from the other direction - more modern buildings down here.

So these areas in Mitte that are so prominent on tourist maps, are a bit dissapointing if you are looking for this vibrant, hip, arty, craft, food obsessed city of your hopes and dreams.

Places to go on this map and described below.

Prenslaurberg, already mentioned area around Wasserturn and area to the West of this around  Zionkirch Strasse.

Boxhanger Platz in the district of Freidrichain.  Krossener Strasse is where Cupcake is located (where Rachel works)

Rachel outside Cupcake looking into the kitchen where she bakes

Going further south to the River Spree you will find an interesting remnant of the Berlin Wall, (East Side Gallery) and the iconic 'kiss' between  Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev and the East Germany President Erich Honecker.

A little further on at the end of this mile stretch of painted wall which is fascinating, is the newly opened Holtzmarkt, am urban cafe and bar complex open to all to wander round on the edge of the River Spree.

On the South side of the Spree are two other good areas to visit.  Kreuzberg, centred around Bergmannstrasse.  From Kreuzberg you can follow a path along the popular canal walk East to Neukolln.  This is an arty down at heel (but on the up) area where there is a lovely little cafe owned by Rachel's friends on WildenbruchPlatz opposite the park.

Rachel and her friend at their cafe in Neukolln

You will hear music blaring out of speakers mounted on bikes as they career around, lots of old buildings, live music in the parks and lots of interesting street smells!

Near Neukolln is the Templehof Airfield, site of the Berlin airlifts, now a massive open park with many sites of interest.  (again, best go on the bike or you will be exhausted and not have time for other interesting sites.)