Monday 1 May 2017

Back on Quercy

Here we are back on Quercy again, currently moored at Lagarde on the Canal Mane au Rhin (which will probably mean nothing to you unless you have been on it - not very near the Rhine and who knows where the Marne is. Well I do actually but it's not like the Seine which everyone knows is it!) so lets say half way between Nancy and Strasbourg ( I'll just nip out and take a photo as the weather has cleared up and the sun has appeared 8pm.)
The port at Lagarde, near erm... nowhere
If you were to look Lagarde up on a map you would be hard pressed to find it, as it really is in the middle of nowhere. Agriculture in the form of wood, cattle, sheep and a few crops are the staples.  It is a watery area and so lots of fishermen line the banks of rivers and lakes; watersports are the main tourist activities.  The countryside is attractive, but I look longingly at the mountains, and I'm anticipating the next leg of our trip where we meet our friends Lucy and Miles and we go through the foothills of the Vosges.

Julian and I have been pondering, as we often do, on the differences between the English and the French.  (We must soon add Germans to the mix.  As often as not German is spoken rather than French around here).

During our 37 mile bike ride today, we enjoyed lunch at a lakeside restaurant finished off with the usual (for me) tea rather than coffee - also as usual this comprised of a Lipton tea bag with a glass of lukewarm water (the French drink their tea without milk so the milk comes only if you make a point of asking for it, and you must stipulate 'lait froid' or it will arrive warm)

The French also have a strict table setting etiquette, so you must never sit at a table laid for a meal if you just want a drink, you need to look for tables not laid up.  Yesterday early evening we wandered into the restaurant at the port which is in a super spot looking out over the boats. As we were only having a drink, and despite the restaurant with the views being almost completely empty were offered a table in a cheerless alcove at the back with no view what-so-ever.  We ended up sitting on the equally empty, but chilly terrace, looking longingly at all those empty chairs and tables inside in the warm. Am I being a grumpy old woman? should I just shrug my shoulders and mutter 'c'est la vie!'? - definitely not - after all, I am English!

Our second night on the boat - are these Ash trees suffering from Ash Dieback, or are they Walnut trees not yet in leaf?  Further investigation necessary.

Bauzemont Chateau Turrets c. 1065

The largest Salt mines in Europe along the canal at

Dombasle-sur-Meurthe


Some very grand former Salt works buildings as well as modern workings.


Lilacs are at their peak now.  These are growing wild in the grounds of a very ornate former salt works building alongside a ruined atrium or a sort of grand bandstand.  Three chandeleirs still hanging from ceiling of the shell of this building.


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