Vermenton

Quercy at Vermenton Port

Everything anyone ever told me about Vermenton was a bit negative.  It was in the middle of nowhere, it had a main road bisecting it and there was 'nothing' there.  I didn't mention any of this to Julian as he was keen to take this little detour off the Nivernais canal.  The Vermenton canal is just a few km long with 2 locks, and the banks are studded with walnut trees, which if you are passing at the end September, is the time that the walnuts fall to the ground.  If you are lucky and no one else has got there first you can hunt for and harvest these russet coloured nuggets.

At Vermenton, the River Cure becomes non navigable upstream. Just downstream from here the Cure flows into the Yonne making it a very sizeable river.

Our view from boat in the port looking back at canal the way we came.

We arrived with a rather acrid taste at the back of our throats yesterday afternoon as a result of engine fumes! This doesn't normally happen after a days cruising, but it does occur if you leave your engine on in the locks (or worse, have to suffer someone elses engine!)

Park near the port

The problem yesterday was that as we were all ready to follow another boat out of a lock on the River Yonne, we turned the key to start the boat and nothing happened!  Julian did this a few times and each time, nothing happened.  We towed the boat out of the lock with ropes and tied up to a tree.  After a while  we tried again and it started (inexplicably) but of course we knew we had a problem and could not risk turning the engine off until we had reached our destination. (Julian later identified it as a blown fuse)

Old willows and horses on walk towards the centre of Vermenton

Back to Vermenton.  We arrived late afternoon, and as the sun sank behind the trees.  Large bats started flitting around.  Julian managed to buy some fuses from the man who runs the base here, and everything worked again. We gave the man two bottles of beer and he told us he lived in Filton nr Bristol for 2 years in his 20's.  He had noticed that our boat as it is registered in Bristol.

Washhouse

The following morning I got up early as the sun was beginning to rise and the mist was hanging on the water.  A fisherman appeared on the opposite bank as I was enjoying my morning tea, and I hurried my tea as I was keen to set off and explore.  For many years Vermenton was the place where logs, that had been cut in the Morvan hills to the south, were floated down the Cure and made into floating 'trains' to continue their journey to Paris, supervised by men who worked them as boats.  The logs were stored on the banks and floating down when the water levels were at their highest.

Logs arrive at Vermenton 16th to 20th century.

I walked out of the port passing a field which contained ancient willows shading a number of horses swishing their tails, I decided to by pass the town and explore the near side river bank and the numerous islands that rise in the middle of the river here.  Beside an old pumping station was the first of a number of footbridges that provide access to all these islands where a 'Boulesarama' has been laid out amongst Foxglove Tree avenues.

As the skies turn pink and I watch two herons make their way to their night time roost, Julian and I agree that we have had an interesting day following the Cure Valley through woodland trails. Sometimes walking our bikes and sometimes cycling. We took a picnic in case we did't find a cafe
which of course we didn't!  On the way back to stopped off as the Abbeye Reigny which was hosting a political conference. A small wooden 'ferme' notice hung from a board which clearly stated that is was open on Sunday afternoons in September (it was Sunday afternoon)   We wondered if we could just wander round and blend in with the delegates, and we were making out way round the far side of the car park (walking with bikes) when I noticed ripe figs on a tree by the wall. Trying to stand our bikes in the long grass, we quickly plucked a few whilst looking round nervously.  SoonI had my (small) pockets stuffed with them, so felt even less like I could blend in. But now we had found such a little treasure trove, it seemed less necessary to look round the Abbeye and so after a bit we turned back brazenly cycling away along the tree lined entrance avenue - now we were in retreat and no one could challenge us!

Water levels

Why don't we write like this any more?

Map of logging activities

We are moored roughly between number 6 and 7 on the above map.  The area to the right is now an attractive park with little foot bridged over the islands.  To get the other side one has to walk right round and very briefly negotiate the N66.

Island on River Cure

Besse sur Cure near picnic spot